A Thanksgiving Ode to the Classics

So, it would be safe to say I am a stickler about Thanksgiving. For me, it has to include the classics or don't bother showing up. I am completely there when it comes to a glistening heap of roast turkey, mashed potatoes, bread and herb stuffing, homemade gravy (even with giblets, if you please), and homemade cranberry sauce. Heck, I don't even mind if the pumpkin thing is a cheesecake instead of a pie. Where I can't go easily, though I am trying to broaden my horizons, is to this notion of completely new recipes for Thanksgiving year-to-year. If you want to make classic stuffing (there's really only one) and then make your oyster-sausage wild rice stuffing, go right ahead. If you want to deep-fry, smoke, chipotle, dry-rub, or otherwise incinerate a turkey or similar fowl of the yard, by all means have at it! Just make sure you create this darling after you salt, pepper, butter, and herb a fresh turkey that's been stuffed with onion, carrot, and celery mirepoix before being lovingly roasted until juicy but not jerky. Yes, there's no zinfandel in the gravy for me, at least not in the first gravy anyway. If you want to make two, three, or four, go for a rainbow of gravy colors. Just don't mess with the kid when it comes to the first and foremost.

Yes, I know that it's really all about giving thanks. I'm with you that spending time with family and loved ones and as much champagne and football as you can muster is reason enough for this season. But the main event for me is a celebration of the classics. Those reminders of what it was to be a part of your family of origin, even if the food was nothing fancy and by the time it got around to you at the card table was most often cold and devoid of any white meat. I'm not stuck on jars of crab apples, or relish trays made from pitted ripe olives, radishes, or even stuffed celery with pink cream cheese. And when it comes to the main meal, have as many variations on a theme as you see fit, just make sure you cover the classic menu first. We have friends who could talk for hours about the different recipes they are considering for Thanksgiving with the idea that everything dish can change year-to-year. Just writing about it now makes me break into a cold sweat.

Over the years, I have begun to realize that this may not be rational behavior on my part. Slowly but surely, I am beginning to branch out and allow for a myriad of options at the Thanksgiving table. Admittedly, they all revolve around variations on a cranberry theme. May you have the fairest of all Thanksgivings and enjoy this year's candidate for innovation: Cranberry Chutney with Candied Ginger and Shallots

Salud!

Cranberry Chutney with Candied Ginger and Shallots

1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 medium shallots, minced
2 (12-oz) bag fresh or frozen cranberries
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup cider vinegar
Juice from one orange (about 1/3 cup)
1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 pinch ground cloves
1 pinch ground cinnamon

1-1/2 oz candied ginger finely diced
Zest from orange, finely grated
1/2 teaspoon salt
Fresh ground black pepper to taste

Prep:

Sauté shallots in oil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened. Stir in remaining ingredients. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until berries just pop, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in candied ginger, orange zest, salt and freshly ground pepper, then cool.

Food Writing 101

Getting started on this business of food writing requires several things:

• A commitment to write (if not post) 5-6 days per week for at least 1-2 hours
• Lots of shopping, cooking, eating, and interviewing
• Plenty of time spent in the company of the guilty (yes, I was in the restaurant biz in a past life!)

Stay tuned - more to come!